Kuromaru Residence Part ONE

                         

A Rural Mansion

I first came across the Kuromaru residence in 2015 when I made my first visit to the Noto Peninsula.  It was early evening when I spotted the large roof of this imposing property backed by a considerable stand of cedars—both house and trees were shrouded in the light of approaching dusk.  I was anxious not to be late for another appointment, so I took a few photographs and sped off toward Wajima, while promising myself that I would return to find out more about this building on a subsequent visit to the area.

In June 2018 I made sure to allocate some time to visit the Kuromaru residence along with Shinji Takagi, an architect and resident of Wajima.

He was hoping that we would be able to see the interior of the house, which is a nationally designated Important Cultural Property dating from the second half of 17th century.  It all depended on whether or not a member of the family was there to show us around.

In a slightly untypical Japanese manner, we made no appointment.  Instead we hoped that our combined humility and professional credentials would be enough to grant us access.  Sadly we were wrong.

There was someone there, however, so we did hear something of the culture of the property.  Well, perhaps we should call it the “agricultural culture” of the property.

The lady who was there—we never did find out if she was a family member or not—was busy tending the neatly arranged vegetable garden across a narrow lane in front of the house.

Noto has severe winters.  It is not uncommon for there to be a metre of snow in such a mountainous area as Wakayama where the building stands, a short distance from Suzu in the north of the peninsula.

The debris from the reed-thatched roof has a second life on the vegetable patch.

The lady told us that the reed thatched roof of the building actually provides a nutrient for the vegetable patch she was lovingly tending.  The snow which settles on the roof breaks down small shreds of the reeds.  These fall to the ground as and when the snow thaws.  Then, when all the snow has melted this reed debris is collected and spread among the vegetables like a fertiliser.

Just being able to approach the house was in fact a welcome bonus for us.  The details of the building are special and amply made up for not being to see the interior.  After all, the main building covers some 400 sq. m. composed of more than 15 individual spaces of various sizes, most of which can be screened off from one another.  It would have been a overwhelming experience to be sure but almost too much to fully appreciate in a short time.

Reading the plan of the building, however, can provides us with an opportunity to more fully understand what is so special about this really outstanding piece of traditional Japanese rural architecture.

Reference:  Japanese Folk Houses, Vol. 2, Farmhouses II, First Published 10th June 1980 by Gakken.

「日本民家」第2巻　農家Ⅱ、1980年6月10日出版、出版社：株式会社学習研究社。

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